Every guitar technician has their own way of approaching the setup process. While there are some basics that should be part of every guitar service — such as intonation, neck relief adjustments, and removing old strings — most will have an added extra of their own. This is usually something the luthier or guitar technician is good at or enjoys most. (My favourite elements are fret polishing and electrical inspections!)
But what's on offer with an Alchemy Instruments guitar setup? Here are the key aspects of my own methods so you can see exactly what goes on when you book a guitar setup or service and bring your trusty instrument to my Cardiff workshop.
Eyes and ears: An overview
The first step in any guitar service is an initial inspection. A preliminary check over the body, neck, fretboard, headstock, and hardware provides an overall picture of the work that will be required for the instrument to be set up to tip-top condition.
Although it’s good to take note of cosmetic and surface-level issues such as dings, chips, pickup height, and the overall condition, these affectations have little to no effect on the instrument’s playability or sound.
The devil is in the details with this inspection, so it’s a visual first check followed by a hands-on affair:
Are the saddle screws rusted or seized?
Do the electronics sound like a bowl of Rice Krispies when played?
Are there any sharp fret ends?
Are the tuners turning like they should?
All of these questions (and a whole host more) will give a pretty good idea of the level of work that’s required and where to start, depending on the results of the initial inspection.
Fret checks
Unless you’re the next Jaco Pistorius or Ned Evett, chances are you have these metal strips that run perpendicular to the length of the neck. The installation has to be uniform, including height, and be perfectly spaced. Therefore, the best place to start is to check the level of frets in relation to one another and correct any major high spots.
For this, we use a fret rocker. Designed to determine the height of one fret compared with those either side of it, this invaluable tool can tell you if one or more frets are higher than they should be.
It’s perfectly normal for there to be a little discrepancy in fret height difference. Things such as neck relief, fretboard condition, humidity, and getting a bit too rock 'n’ roll on stage can have an effect on fret height over time. Environmental factors can — and very much do — change the condition of the frets, too. So it’s worth checking fret height at every setup.
Sometimes, frets will be high but still well-seated. The best thing to do is to note these and see if they impact the setup later on.
Fret checks should be undertaken with the strings on to get an accurate fret level reading for the instrument in its playing state. Without the strings, the neck relief will be off, and checking fret levels on a perfectly straight neck will tell you a lot about the state of the frets under perfect conditions — but not under the conditions you play with.
I have this discussion a fair bit because two luthiers will never agree on the exact method. However, I’m of the opinion that if a fret reads high when level but the relief corrects that, then you avoid undertaking a destructive form of maintenance: fret levelling.
String buzz checks
Well done Kelly. You just told me not to worry about the odd high fret, but every time a play a certain fret, the strings just choke out! Great advice…
I have good news for you, disappointed guitarist. Instead of jumping straight to permanent fixes like fret levelling and crowning, we can focus on using the guitar's adjustable features to correct minor imperfections. These adjustments are reversible, unlike permanent fixes, so you can easily fine-tune your guitar without committing to changes that can't be undone.
Part of any setup should be to check if there is excessive buzz when played. There’s always a bit of ‘twang’ for a number of reasons that don’t relate to an underlying issue with an instrument. For example, very low action, using thin gauge strings, or a poorly profiled guitar nut, to name a few.
However, it’s not uncommon for that buzz to come about because of the neck relief. If there’s a lot of relief in the neck, then that buzz will manifest on the upper part of the fretboard most prevalently, sometimes around the mid frets too. If there’s not enough relief or a back bow even when strung at full tension, then that buzz is at its worst around the midsection of the fretboard — and around the lower frets, too, if it's a very pronounced back bow.
But, like I said, that levelling beam and crowning file should be reserved for refrets and spot levelling where there is no other choice. We actually have another choice, and it’s the next step in our setup process.
In Rod we truss: Truss rod adjustment
There’s a lot of hype around truss rods and how to adjust them. Most instrument manufacturers will generally opt for modern two-way truss rods to maximise the adjustment options, although some one-way adjustment rods are still in circulation. And in classical guitars, they’re sometimes non-existent due to the reduced string tension.
The rather ingenious truss rod is something to be respected rather than feared. While it is possible to break a truss by adding too much tension or forcing it when seized, going slow and steady poses little risk. My technique is to apply an eighth-to-quarter turn to the truss rod and then check the effect before adjusting again if necessary. This is one of those methods where safe is most definitely better than sorry, even if it takes a long time.
As a general rule, the first adjustment should always be to introduce relief, even if that is the antithesis of your intended aim. This is for two reasons:
One: You never know if you’re maxed out on the truss rod itself, meaning if you try to tension the rod when it’s already at full tension, you’ll hear a crack and feel like a bucket of cold water was just dumped on your head…
Two: Truss rods, especially on vintage guitars or instruments that have been in storage for years, can seize up over time. Applying force to a seized truss rod can lead to damage, and it’s possible to overshoot the regular ⅛ to ¼ turn rule.
The general rule is that truss rods adjust the neck's relief, not the string height (action). Adjusting the truss rod can affect the action slightly, but its main job is to set the neck's curve. If you're looking to lower the action, the saddles are where you should focus for the best results.
(For more information on setting the right relief, check out my truss rod adjustment post.)
Saddle adjustment and string action
Adjusting the saddles is another part of guitar servicing that has a multifaceted outcome. It can affect both string height and the radius of the string in relation to the fretboard.
Most acoustic guitars and some vintage models come with a preset radius, but there are many ways to adjust the saddle height. You can use grub screws, post screws on a tune-o-matic bridge, or other methods. The goal is the same: to raise or lower the action based on your preference.
Electric guitar servicing and setup
For my electric guitar servicing, I generally aim for an action of around 1.8mm on the low E string and 1.6mm on the high E string, with the others set at individual heights so they conform to the radius of the fretboard. This height can vary, and really it’s the instrument that determines what level is possible.
Some guitars can be set lower than 1.5mm across the board by a guitar technician who knows what they’re doing on a well-made instrument. Others require 2mm on low E to mitigate high frets or the elliptical vibration of the string — especially on low-gauge strings - which hold less tension to reach their designed pitch. As such, they have more elasticity.
Acoustic string action setup
On acoustic guitars, the average action height is around 2.5mm to 2.8mm on the low E string. It’s safe to say that most fall safely within this range, but where the action exceeds 3mm, I tend to check the neck relief and saddle height and make adjustments accordingly.
If the neck relief is very pronounced, this might solve the issue. However, it’s more likely you also need to shave the saddle slightly to lower the action.
Pro tip: for every millimetre of material removed from the bottom of the saddle, the action is lowered by half the value at the 12th fret. So, remove a whopping 3mm from a stacked saddle, and the result will be a 1.5mm lower action, for example.
Nut filing
It’s also worth mentioning that occasionally, a guitar comes in with a comically large nut. This can be either electric or acoustic, but to me, it’s funnier on an electric guitar because trying to pull off an E chord feels like you’re trying to play the cables on a suspension bridge!
If it only affects one string, then the answer is to file that nut slot down to mitigate the effect. But if it impacts all of the strings, you can shave the underside of the nut in the same way you would an acoustic saddle: flat surface, sand paper, and even pressure applied to remove material.
I never aim to remove large swathes of material in one go and will generally aim to remove 0.25mm as a maximum amount before tapering down to 0.05mm - 0.1mm at the finishing stage.
Intonation
Fretted instruments adhere to a set scale length, given that to produce notes that adhere to their correct pitch, the frets need to be laid out at set intervals. This is different from a violin or double bass, which are commonly unfretted and designed to be self-intonating. These set frets are fantastic for ease of playability, as you don’t have to touch the string to the fingerboard exactly every time. You simply have to press the string down behind the fret you wish to play, and that hardy piece of metal does the rest of the work.
But have you ever been playing rhythm guitar, getting ready for the solo and then BAM! Sharps and flats everywhere! Why does it sometimes sound so out of tune when you go higher up the neck, even though you’ve checked with a tuner that you’re perfectly pitched on the open strings? The answer is intonation.
Intonation is a key part of any guitar setup. It’s all about ensuring each string is properly pitched all the way up the fretboard.
Electric
On electric guitars, individual saddles are typically used to adjust intonation by moving them closer to or further from the nut. This adjustment helps set the optimal string length for your guitar's scale, compensating for any natural intonation imperfections. The same principle applies to dual saddles on Telecasters and floating bridges, which, while not allowing individual string adjustment, can be moved as a whole to achieve the best possible intonation.
Acoustic
On acoustic instruments, taking a file to the top section of the saddle is the best way to mitigate poor intonation. Given this is a fixed saddle, it’s also common to see what’s referred to as a compensated saddle, where the B string is set differently to the others.
For both guitar types, the same general rule applies. Test the intonation by tuning up to pitch on open strings, and then fret the 12th fret and use that note as a reference. For strings that produce a sharp note at the 12th fret, you want to increase the length of the string — i.e. move the saddle away from the nut.
For flat notes, it’s the opposite, you want to close that gap and move the saddle toward the nut. The ideal result should be a natural (or natural as possible given your hardware limitations) 12th fret and open string. That way, you can be sure your intonation won’t catch you out next time you go to shred it.
Electronics setup
A standard feature of an Alchemy Instruments guitar service is a multipoint check of the circuitry and components to ensure everything is in proper working order. From pots that crackle to a signal that cuts out, there’s no better feeling than diagnosing and fixing a long-standing issue.
I like to make my electrical checks thorough, so they include:
A simple plug-in and play test
This can tell us a lot about the state of the electronic components through general use. Fortunately, most guitar electronics are easily accessible. As such what you hear initially can be followed up by a visual inspection.
Pots and switches
I’ll tighten up anything loose or flimsy and replace any missing minor parts, such as nuts and washers. As for the infamous snap, crackle and pop you get over time, a special contact cleaner can ensure the oil and lubricants used in pots and other components aren’t removed when cleaning the electrical contacts.
Grounding
Got an annoying hum? This is often a symptom of poor grounding. How do you fix poor grounding, I hear you ask? Well, how long have you got?
On the one hand, you can open up a guitar and right away see a wire that should be connected to the bridge or trem claw waving at you like a little greeting. This is a very welcome sight, and the resolution is to be polite and wave back, and then tack that wire back where it belongs with a blob of solder.
However, more often than not, it’s a mystery as to what is causing the issue, and that's why the multipoint checks include continuity tests to ensure all of the connections are solid and not causing any issues. Believe me when I say grounding issues can be the most frustrating to diagnose, but it’s an important part of a guitar's playability. It’s no fun to play a guitar that has constant intermittent humm, pops, or cutouts, and not an option for professional musicians to have a guitar that sounds like a drum machine.
That’s why I include it in my guitar checks, and why an Alchemy Instrument setup goes further.
Looking for a comprehensive guitar setup from a luthier in Cardiff?
When it comes to guitar servicing, average won’t do. I’ve been a touring musician, undertaken session work, and still gig to this day. So I understand that you want your guitar ready for all eventualities — especially those last-minute gigs — and in great shape for as long as possible.
As a fellow musician, it’s important to me that I offer the best quality guitar services and setups. Please feel free to contact me today to discuss your guitar servicing needs, and let me know what I can do for you.
I provide luthier and guitar tech services in Cardiff, but am happy to take on work from across South Wales and South West England!
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